Here is a sequence of what gets done.

Discharge the 400V primary capacitors.

Remove the 4x capacitors.  3x dead, 1x probably damaged.  Leaving the area free from silicon glue.

The solder has been sucked from the PCB holes, as shown.

Dead capacitors at the top, new at the bottom.

Solder in the new capacitors and clip the legs.

New capacitors in the PSU, showing themselves off!

Put the PSU onto a full resistor load.  Large 'gold' resistor for 12V and the smaller white block marked 'HOT!!' for the 5V.
This tests the PSU at full load conditions.  Leave like this for 1 hour and measure the voltage levels.

These voltages are fine.  +5V and +12V on full load after 1 hour.  The PSU is fixed!

Drill a pilot hole in the alloy base and rubber mat beneath.  Position is the centre of the cooling fan after it has been 'turned over'.

Brute force cutting of a 44mm hole through the alloy place and rubber mat below.  My left boot and weight holds it all in place!

Dremel sanding wheel for detailing. Keep it on its slowest speed.

Alloy and rubber mat before detailing.

Large hole has been detailed.  10x screw holes marked with blue marker pen.

A 5/32” hole punch and NOT the 5mm one responsible for the holes below.
This makes the much smaller rubber pieces that are used as ‘plugs’ in the holes afterwards.

What the rubber mat looks like afterwards. (5mm holes)

They line up quite well! (5mm holes)

33 Ohm resistor added to the 5V supply line to make the fan run at half speed.  'Control' line cut to allow the fan to run.
I now cover the bare wire soldered connections with heat shrink and the whole resistor and control wire folded back with a larger piece of heat shrink.

The ‘Main Air Intake’ hole will be covered in tape. First make a cut out of the opening, which is not circular.

Stick the ‘cut out’ piece to the clear tape that will be used as the cover. Sticky side to sticky side.

This makes a ‘non-sticky’ patch on the inside of the fan opening so it does not pick-up dust and bits.
With a scalpel this is trimmed to remove the overhanging bits. The tape is removed that is holding back the sponge
‘gasket’ and it is finished.

Stainless steel mesh over the hole and 3x rubber pillars shortened (by 5mm) and super-glued back together.

Fan re-assembled into the base plate.  The top opening is fully closed with tape (extra piece shows as light grey).  
It now blows into the PSU. The ‘tape patch’ on this fan is made up with two clear pieces of tape and then a strip of magic tape to hold down the edge nearest to the sponge gasket.
This was always a messy solution. The option seen with the blue tape above takes much longer but gives better, cleaner results.
The patch ensures the air drawn in, primarily blows into the PSU and not sideways around the edges of the fan.

Assembled with the rubber mat about to be stuck on.

A TC with smaller punched holes for the 10x screws, filled with the small rubber pieces... almost invisible!
The plastic feet shown here raise the TC by 5mm from the flat surface.

A slightly larger set of plastic feet, raises the TC by 8mm from the surface.
Very usefully this makes the TC run 1 degree cooler! (Every little helps!)
(The TC shown has been ‘upsized’ to 2TB - this is VERY popular)

Within this picture there are 3x screw heads covered with plugs of rubber. Can you see them yet! (with thanks to Rolf Harris)
The ‘GR’ is the customer’s initials for identification.

Screen shot 2010-07-04 at 22.26.34
Business has been busy; a weekends work!
Some Repairs and Mods some Mods only and one Repair, Modification and Upsize to
2TB with me trying out some picture annotation!

I’m very pleased with the smaller ‘hidden’ screw holes, which have had nothing but good feedback.