TC PSU sequence
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YOU COULD USE THESE PICTURES TO HELP WITH YOUR DIY REPAIRS, in which case take note of these hard-won details. A 'Flextronic' PSU that has been cooked in its own heat.

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Dead components lurk in here!

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With a suitable blade (not too sharp!). Cut away the side of the foil as shown.

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Lots of small slices rather than one big one.

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Peel it away.

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To expose this join.

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Carefully separate the glued edges.

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Peel back the lid, just enough to get to the primary capacitors. Discharge them with a 1K Ohm resistor.

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Very very gently, peel back the lower edge and cut away the grey sealant with the not-too-sharp blade.

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and again...

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and yet again...

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If you are very careful it will not break. Cut towards the plastic cover, NOT the circuit board!

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DISCHARGE the primary capacitors again. This is important. I have the scars to prove it!

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Two capacitors just filled with nothing good. The bulging ends are a dead giveaway.

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The other two capacitors with the 'ends' showing should be regarded as dead; bulges or not.

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Cut away the grey sealant carefully avoiding any wires.

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The two main capacitors will unsolder from here. Peel away the grey sealant that covers the leg to the right.

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As shown here.

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A solder sucker works well, as does 'solder wick'.

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All four legs sucked free of solder.

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With the 'blunt blade' cut away the grey sealant and bend the capacitors upwards.

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and liberate the capacitors from the board. Rock them back and forth and the solder will break away.

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Clean up the board from all the grey gunge. Unsolder the other two capacitors (real easy) and the board will...

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... have nice clean holes ready for the new capacitors.

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However... test the removed capacitors. Top line is Resistance. Bottom line is Capacitance. Yep... its dead! Should be E=0.01 and C=1000uF.

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This capacitor was not 'bulging' but is dead anyway - way out of spec here. Should be E=0.20 and C=470uF.

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Dead. Should be E=0.01 and C=1500uF.

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And again. Should be E=0.01 and C=1500uF.

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Ta da! New capacitors, all ready for installation. Use the best you can get. Not cheap old tat. These makes, Rubycon and ELNA are both good. Rated at 105C and low ESR. I suggest 1000uF @ 6.3V to replace the 470uF unit from the board.

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And just to prove it... here they are before being fitted. 1000uF @ 6.3V (some are fitted with 470uF)

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470uF @ 16V

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1500uF @ 6.3V

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1500uF @ 6.3V

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Bend gently like this.

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Fit them and angle the wires gently to avoid them falling out. NOTE: The 'shaded' side of the end-on capacitors denotes NEGATIVE side.

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Solder.

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And clip.

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Top view. Looking good.

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Solder the output connections onto a 'dummy load' to test the PSU.

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These resistors get really quite hot. Tests the PSU to its full current on both 5V and 12V outputs.

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These voltages are OK.

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Delightfully yellow and hellishly expensive 'Kapton' high temperature tape. It holds it all together. I recommend it! (The rolls in the background BTW was over £30! Crazy!) NOW DOWLOAD the Complete DIY Guide for the PSU. Next Page.