YOU COULD USE THESE PICTURES TO HELP WITH YOUR DIY REPAIRS, in which case take note of these hard-won details. A 'Flextronic' PSU that has been cooked in its own heat.
Dead components lurk in here!
With a suitable blade (not too sharp!). Cut away the side of the foil as shown.
Lots of small slices rather than one big one.
Peel it away.
To expose this join.
Carefully separate the glued edges.
Peel back the lid, just enough to get to the primary capacitors. Discharge them with a 1K Ohm resistor.
Very very gently, peel back the lower edge and cut away the grey sealant with the not-too-sharp blade.
and yet again...
If you are very careful it will not break. Cut towards the plastic cover, NOT the circuit board!
DISCHARGE the primary capacitors again. This is important. I have the scars to prove it!
Two capacitors just filled with nothing good. The bulging ends are a dead giveaway.
The other two capacitors with the 'ends' showing should be regarded as dead; bulges or not.
Cut away the grey sealant carefully avoiding any wires.
The two main capacitors will unsolder from here. Peel away the grey sealant that covers the leg to the right.
As shown here.
A solder sucker works well, as does 'solder wick'.
All four legs sucked free of solder.
With the 'blunt blade' cut away the grey sealant and bend the capacitors upwards.
and liberate the capacitors from the board. Rock them back and forth and the solder will break away.
Clean up the board from all the grey gunge. Unsolder the other two capacitors (real easy) and the board will...
... have nice clean holes ready for the new capacitors.
However... test the removed capacitors. Top line is Resistance. Bottom line is Capacitance. Yep... its dead! Should be E=0.01 and C=1000uF.
This capacitor was not 'bulging' but is dead anyway - way out of spec here. Should be E=0.20 and C=470uF.
Dead. Should be E=0.01 and C=1500uF.
And again. Should be E=0.01 and C=1500uF.
Ta da! New capacitors, all ready for installation. Use the best you can get. Not cheap old tat. These makes, Rubycon and ELNA are both good. Rated at 105C and low ESR. I suggest 1000uF @ 6.3V to replace the 470uF unit from the board.
And just to prove it... here they are before being fitted. 1000uF @ 6.3V (some are fitted with 470uF)
470uF @ 16V
1500uF @ 6.3V
1500uF @ 6.3V
Bend gently like this.
Fit them and angle the wires gently to avoid them falling out. NOTE: The 'shaded' side of the end-on capacitors denotes NEGATIVE side.
Top view. Looking good.
Solder the output connections onto a 'dummy load' to test the PSU.
These resistors get really quite hot. Tests the PSU to its full current on both 5V and 12V outputs.
These voltages are OK.
Delightfully yellow and hellishly expensive 'Kapton' high temperature tape. It holds it all together. I recommend it! (The rolls in the background BTW was over £30! Crazy!) NOW DOWLOAD the Complete DIY Guide for the PSU. Next Page.